When a wave breaks against the shore, the crest outruns the trough and the crest collapses in this type of wave?

When a wave breaks against the shore, the crest outruns the trough and the crest collapses in this type of wave:

1. Identify the components of the wave: The wave consists of the crest (the highest point) and the trough (the lowest point).

2. Understand the motion: As the wave approaches the shore, the water depth decreases, causing the wave to slow down. However, the crest, being higher, moves faster than the trough.

3. Resulting action: This difference in speed causes the crest to outrun the trough.

4. Outcome: The crest eventually collapses forward, leading to the wave breaking.

5. Type of wave: This type of wave is known as a "breaking wave" or more specifically, a "plunging breaker" if the crest curls over and crashes down, or a "spilling breaker" if the crest gently spills down the front of the wave.